7/25
4:30pm Pacific
First day back at work. Still rather jetlagged but improving. I keep waking up 1-2 times per night, when my bedroom is very dark, in stark panic that I’m on a train and have fallen asleep and missed my stop. I keep looking out my bedroom window and asking myself “Is this Osaka?” which is silly because while the trains were comfy, the experience never matching lying down cozy in my blankets in my comparably spacious darkened bedroom.
Monday, July 25, 2005
Saturday, July 23, 2005
Friday, July 22, 2005
9:07pm/5:12am Pacific:
I like sitting next to short people. There’s a very nice Japanese lady (also shoulder high) sitting nex tto me who laughed when I dropped a steamed baby carrot in my cleavage when the meal was served. She doesn’t have a bag in the under-the-seat-area, and isn’t stretching out her not particularly long legs... so much leg room it’s uncanny
I like sitting next to short people. There’s a very nice Japanese lady (also shoulder high) sitting nex tto me who laughed when I dropped a steamed baby carrot in my cleavage when the meal was served. She doesn’t have a bag in the under-the-seat-area, and isn’t stretching out her not particularly long legs... so much leg room it’s uncanny
8:06pm/4:11am Pacific:
Two thoughts. It’ll likely be a sad change not being tall anymore. While I felt like a gorilla most of the time, it was cool being taller than 90% of the women and 50% of the men. Though it was pretty damn cool to step into the airplane bathroom and have paper towels. Side note: I think we’re just south of the Kamchatka peninsula, that little tail of Russia that hangs down. I can’t remember when I’ve had those, if I’ve had those, since reaching Japan. Some times there were hot air dryers (the most effective I’ve ever experienced in some cases) but usually there was ample hand wettening facilities but nothing available in hand drying, apart from my pants leg. Though it did start to make sense – my hands were always dry again in just two to three minutes, even if I just barely shook them off upon leaving the sink. But body image. It’s been on my mind more than once and I believe I made a note somewhere earlier. Alex told me an odd thing. He had observed that there is a jealousy of caucasian women among japanese women for our supposed large eyes and breasts. This was odd and unheard of to me – I’m more used to a generally accepted caucasian woman’s jealousy of Asian women for their dainty builds, slender bodies, etc. I had a rather bad day on Sunday, which involved spilling soup on the white tank top I was wearing, in addition to an unflattering burn line and dye from my purse strap (side note: it seems that sunscreen dissolves black leather dye - I had the same thing happen some years ago in Las Vegas. I wore a white tank top and black purse and the shoulder of the shirt got smeared black - sunscreen seems to be the common denominator) I decided the thing to do would be to just buy a new shirt to change into on the fly. But then up on further thought it occurred to me that I would likely have significant difficulty finding one. I’m at the large end for standard sizing in the US, so my chances of finding a shirt in most stores in a country where the average woman is half my size. Oddly enough, Akemi was able to lend me a t-shirt – it was an American size large. Not as baggy as would be ideal but a surprisingly good fit. Akemi is maybe shoulder high on me and I’d be surprised if she was half my weight. Which for some reason reminds me of something. Alex let me use his bed while he slept on a futon in the living room/office. His bed headboard is sort of a crisscross waffle pattern.#### like that. After a few nights I noticed two ties hanging from the slats of the headboard. Could make a creative minded girl wonder.
Two thoughts. It’ll likely be a sad change not being tall anymore. While I felt like a gorilla most of the time, it was cool being taller than 90% of the women and 50% of the men. Though it was pretty damn cool to step into the airplane bathroom and have paper towels. Side note: I think we’re just south of the Kamchatka peninsula, that little tail of Russia that hangs down. I can’t remember when I’ve had those, if I’ve had those, since reaching Japan. Some times there were hot air dryers (the most effective I’ve ever experienced in some cases) but usually there was ample hand wettening facilities but nothing available in hand drying, apart from my pants leg. Though it did start to make sense – my hands were always dry again in just two to three minutes, even if I just barely shook them off upon leaving the sink. But body image. It’s been on my mind more than once and I believe I made a note somewhere earlier. Alex told me an odd thing. He had observed that there is a jealousy of caucasian women among japanese women for our supposed large eyes and breasts. This was odd and unheard of to me – I’m more used to a generally accepted caucasian woman’s jealousy of Asian women for their dainty builds, slender bodies, etc. I had a rather bad day on Sunday, which involved spilling soup on the white tank top I was wearing, in addition to an unflattering burn line and dye from my purse strap (side note: it seems that sunscreen dissolves black leather dye - I had the same thing happen some years ago in Las Vegas. I wore a white tank top and black purse and the shoulder of the shirt got smeared black - sunscreen seems to be the common denominator) I decided the thing to do would be to just buy a new shirt to change into on the fly. But then up on further thought it occurred to me that I would likely have significant difficulty finding one. I’m at the large end for standard sizing in the US, so my chances of finding a shirt in most stores in a country where the average woman is half my size. Oddly enough, Akemi was able to lend me a t-shirt – it was an American size large. Not as baggy as would be ideal but a surprisingly good fit. Akemi is maybe shoulder high on me and I’d be surprised if she was half my weight. Which for some reason reminds me of something. Alex let me use his bed while he slept on a futon in the living room/office. His bed headboard is sort of a crisscross waffle pattern.#### like that. After a few nights I noticed two ties hanging from the slats of the headboard. Could make a creative minded girl wonder.
5:43pm/1:49am Pacific:
The flight just took off. There is distinctly more legroom up here, I have to say. I was just thinking about Alex’s shower, a prime reason why I’m a bit stinky. It’s in it’s own room which is approximately five feet square. The tub has a footprint the approximate size, perhaps a touch larger, as a standing alone shower but is a rather deep tub – if I’d sat down I’d expect it to be shoulder high or nearly so. There isn’t a hot water heater for the building or for the apartment, just for the tub/shower. It is gas powered. Your turn the gas valve at the wall to open, then hold down and turn a knob to position one. Actually, reverse those two steps. There’s a crank that you turn a few times to get a spark. Then you turn (but don’t hold down) the same knob as before and turn to position two (never turn to position three as this would be hot enough to make tea most likely).
The flight just took off. There is distinctly more legroom up here, I have to say. I was just thinking about Alex’s shower, a prime reason why I’m a bit stinky. It’s in it’s own room which is approximately five feet square. The tub has a footprint the approximate size, perhaps a touch larger, as a standing alone shower but is a rather deep tub – if I’d sat down I’d expect it to be shoulder high or nearly so. There isn’t a hot water heater for the building or for the apartment, just for the tub/shower. It is gas powered. Your turn the gas valve at the wall to open, then hold down and turn a knob to position one. Actually, reverse those two steps. There’s a crank that you turn a few times to get a spark. Then you turn (but don’t hold down) the same knob as before and turn to position two (never turn to position three as this would be hot enough to make tea most likely).
4:33pm
The plane should board in a few minutes. Alex asked me last night on the train if I’d ever looked around and thought “my goodness, everyone is Japanese” or something along those lines. I never had that but found I did notice the occasional not-Asian person sticking out like a sore thumb. I can smell myself. Not in a bad stinky way but it doesn’t bode all that well. It should offer excellent defense on the bus back in Seattle. I think we’ve just established something. The moving sidewalks at Narita airport have a rather annoying buzzer if you go to get on the one going the wrong way for you. I’m sitting right by the end. However a fellow running for his flight ran onto on the wrong way and it didn’t buzz. So it can only tell what direction you’re going if you move slowly enough if my reasoning is correct. There’s a very large group of Japanese schoolgirls that appear to be in their early teens who are on this flight. Being in the same cabin as large groups tends to annoy me, so the economy upgrade seems like an even better idea. They could be in economy too, but I don’t know that there are enough seats in that section.
The plane should board in a few minutes. Alex asked me last night on the train if I’d ever looked around and thought “my goodness, everyone is Japanese” or something along those lines. I never had that but found I did notice the occasional not-Asian person sticking out like a sore thumb. I can smell myself. Not in a bad stinky way but it doesn’t bode all that well. It should offer excellent defense on the bus back in Seattle. I think we’ve just established something. The moving sidewalks at Narita airport have a rather annoying buzzer if you go to get on the one going the wrong way for you. I’m sitting right by the end. However a fellow running for his flight ran onto on the wrong way and it didn’t buzz. So it can only tell what direction you’re going if you move slowly enough if my reasoning is correct. There’s a very large group of Japanese schoolgirls that appear to be in their early teens who are on this flight. Being in the same cabin as large groups tends to annoy me, so the economy upgrade seems like an even better idea. They could be in economy too, but I don’t know that there are enough seats in that section.
2:42pm:
I’ve made it to the gate without too much incident aside from blowing $80-90 on a seat upgrade to economy. Considering recent tummy troubles I was feeling that an aisle seat would be a good idea. I think it’ll be good anyway– a long flight, a more spacious seat for my large American butt. I’ve got approximately two hours and 1200 yen (give or take) to kill. I had a fair bit more yen but I picked out and put aside some coins for my mom as I think she’ll like them. [ed: I tried to write “Seattle” in Japanese and there’s no way I can figure to try to type that in with current keyboard configuration.] I believe this is Seattle in Japanese. It is what is alternating with “Seattle” on the readerboard at the gate. I bought Pocky (half done already, I hadn’t thought I was that hungry), gum, Qoo and pocari sweat a few minutes ago. A little later I’ll wander further afield to see if I can find anything to do with these last yen. I’m feeling in much higher spirits now – is there anything Pocky and apple Qoo can’t do? (Disclaimer: not including bomb dismantling, brain surgery, and beating Deep Blue at chess).
I’ve made it to the gate without too much incident aside from blowing $80-90 on a seat upgrade to economy. Considering recent tummy troubles I was feeling that an aisle seat would be a good idea. I think it’ll be good anyway– a long flight, a more spacious seat for my large American butt. I’ve got approximately two hours and 1200 yen (give or take) to kill. I had a fair bit more yen but I picked out and put aside some coins for my mom as I think she’ll like them. [ed: I tried to write “Seattle” in Japanese and there’s no way I can figure to try to type that in with current keyboard configuration.] I believe this is Seattle in Japanese. It is what is alternating with “Seattle” on the readerboard at the gate. I bought Pocky (half done already, I hadn’t thought I was that hungry), gum, Qoo and pocari sweat a few minutes ago. A little later I’ll wander further afield to see if I can find anything to do with these last yen. I’m feeling in much higher spirits now – is there anything Pocky and apple Qoo can’t do? (Disclaimer: not including bomb dismantling, brain surgery, and beating Deep Blue at chess).
1:01pm
I just got on the Narita Express and am feeling a good deal better. My feet probably wont be in an hour – I haven’t been able to figure out which cares are unreserved if there are any so am standing in the in between area near the door. Am feeling rather proud at having found (which I believe to be) the right train without misstep of any note. I tried squatting like the other people are. I figured out in less than a minute that it just wasn’t going to work.
I just got on the Narita Express and am feeling a good deal better. My feet probably wont be in an hour – I haven’t been able to figure out which cares are unreserved if there are any so am standing in the in between area near the door. Am feeling rather proud at having found (which I believe to be) the right train without misstep of any note. I tried squatting like the other people are. I figured out in less than a minute that it just wasn’t going to work.
9:22am:
I expect I’ll spend the rest of this trip trying to cover all the things I missed writing out while I was here. Women’s shoes - while I saw some Converse, and older women were more prone to sensible footwear, I saw such a prevalence of beautiful and thoroughly impractical footwear. The trend right now seems to be towards very thoroughly decorated/adorned (sequins, ribbons and the like) high heeled mules. It felt rare to see a woman in shoes without a noticeable heel, even if it was only an inch high.
I expect I’ll spend the rest of this trip trying to cover all the things I missed writing out while I was here. Women’s shoes - while I saw some Converse, and older women were more prone to sensible footwear, I saw such a prevalence of beautiful and thoroughly impractical footwear. The trend right now seems to be towards very thoroughly decorated/adorned (sequins, ribbons and the like) high heeled mules. It felt rare to see a woman in shoes without a noticeable heel, even if it was only an inch high.
8:55am:
I just got on Shinkansen Hikari 366 for Tokyo. Walking to the train station in Aioi I was thinking about how I’m ready to be going home. Of course now I’m thinking about how I’ll miss Japan. My love of public transportation was broadened by Japan’s wonderful train system and my fondness for old beautiful buildings was more than sated everywhere I looked. We just pulled into Himeji, and shortly before doing so I saw a tile room with the fish on top which is meant to protect against fire. An incredibly fast train just passed on the next track, the air wake of which shook this train a bit. On my way to Aioi station I stopped at Lawson and bought water and snacks – the triangle shaped sushi rice balls/triangles. I’m almost sniffly, though I expect part of this, or rather a contribuing factor, is tiredness. I was up until after two, in part charging up iPod/laptop/phone, transferring photos from my camera to my laptop and burning a CD for Alex (and having one burned for me in return) and watching the last of the Indian movie.
I just got on Shinkansen Hikari 366 for Tokyo. Walking to the train station in Aioi I was thinking about how I’m ready to be going home. Of course now I’m thinking about how I’ll miss Japan. My love of public transportation was broadened by Japan’s wonderful train system and my fondness for old beautiful buildings was more than sated everywhere I looked. We just pulled into Himeji, and shortly before doing so I saw a tile room with the fish on top which is meant to protect against fire. An incredibly fast train just passed on the next track, the air wake of which shook this train a bit. On my way to Aioi station I stopped at Lawson and bought water and snacks – the triangle shaped sushi rice balls/triangles. I’m almost sniffly, though I expect part of this, or rather a contribuing factor, is tiredness. I was up until after two, in part charging up iPod/laptop/phone, transferring photos from my camera to my laptop and burning a CD for Alex (and having one burned for me in return) and watching the last of the Indian movie.
Thursday, July 21, 2005
10:37pm
I just saw something a few minutes ago that was terribly silly that I’d like to remember. It feels like EVERYONE here has a cell phone and text messaging is particularly popular as Alex has told me. People also tend to sleep on the trains. Sometimes it even looks like the people standing on the train are cat-napping. There was a fellow standing approximately ten feet away who had his flip phone open in one hand, resting on the back of a seat, in text message sending mode. But his head was lolling forward against his chest and his eyes appeared quite closed. Dressed professionally
And at the last stop he sat next to me so I’m glad my handwriting is messy, just in case. Both Akemi and Alex complimented me on my handwriting which is patently absurd.
I just saw something a few minutes ago that was terribly silly that I’d like to remember. It feels like EVERYONE here has a cell phone and text messaging is particularly popular as Alex has told me. People also tend to sleep on the trains. Sometimes it even looks like the people standing on the train are cat-napping. There was a fellow standing approximately ten feet away who had his flip phone open in one hand, resting on the back of a seat, in text message sending mode. But his head was lolling forward against his chest and his eyes appeared quite closed. Dressed professionally
And at the last stop he sat next to me so I’m glad my handwriting is messy, just in case. Both Akemi and Alex complimented me on my handwriting which is patently absurd.
9:09pm:
I’m sitting in a yaki-niku restaurant where I’ve grilled lots of beef at a mini grill in the middle of the table had a large beer and the restaurant stereo is playing the Carpenters. We’re on the main-ish street of the Namba district of Osaka (rather trendy, it seems)
to mention: shochu (soda and calpis for me, on the rocks for Alex)
I’m sitting in a yaki-niku restaurant where I’ve grilled lots of beef at a mini grill in the middle of the table had a large beer and the restaurant stereo is playing the Carpenters. We’re on the main-ish street of the Namba district of Osaka (rather trendy, it seems)
to mention: shochu (soda and calpis for me, on the rocks for Alex)
6:13pm:
The train is due into Namba in approximately an hour. My to-do list (tentative) for the evening is as follows:
1) Dinner with Alex and Akemi
2) charge laptop, iPod and phone
3) Watch last of Alex’s Indian movie (he bought it in Malaysia on VCD - It’s an Indian romantic-comedy (with singing and dancing of course) with English and Malay subtitles, with themes of car racing, studying for exams, naughty but endearing orphans, and star crossed lovers of course.) Pack up stuff workably.
The train is due into Namba in approximately an hour. My to-do list (tentative) for the evening is as follows:
1) Dinner with Alex and Akemi
2) charge laptop, iPod and phone
3) Watch last of Alex’s Indian movie (he bought it in Malaysia on VCD - It’s an Indian romantic-comedy (with singing and dancing of course) with English and Malay subtitles, with themes of car racing, studying for exams, naughty but endearing orphans, and star crossed lovers of course.) Pack up stuff workably.
5:39pm
.... if the ones without were all the old ones from which the writing could have worn away. Some were just a few feet tall and others were easily ten. I’d have loved to have taken pictures but it felt disrespectful to photograph the shrines of people’s ancestors – not quite on the same level as “Kennewick man” but still. It was beautiful. We kinda rushed through it, we met a fellow, his friend and her niece on the bus there and walked with them. His name (he lived in Dublin for 3 years) was Hori and he was an older fellow, 60ish I think. He was taking Chinese lessons from the sister of Xui (Siu is going to get you closer to the pronunciation) and the sister’s daughter Lei, who looked maybe 12. It was tough to guess Xui’s age, my first thought was early to mid 30s, but her daughter has been studying at Julliard since last August. Xui was practicing her English as she plans to visit her daughter next year. Hori was the one who showed me the first Tokugawa shogun’s shrine/grave and his son’s. Another thing for my reading list is Japanese early history. The Meiji restoration and after doesn’t interest me but before has me fascinated. We’re on the train back to Namba and the view is amazing. I try not to think about the narrow winding purchase the train must have on the side of the mountain. There are high misty green peaks in every direction, bottomless valleys. Tall trees scraping the sky with bamboo shooting up – the stalks are as large as my arm, and cycads/sago palms making the scene even more exotic. We had lunch with them then hopped off the bus separately to look at a shrine complex. We’re hoping to be able to meet up with Akemi for dinner when we get to Osaka.
.... if the ones without were all the old ones from which the writing could have worn away. Some were just a few feet tall and others were easily ten. I’d have loved to have taken pictures but it felt disrespectful to photograph the shrines of people’s ancestors – not quite on the same level as “Kennewick man” but still. It was beautiful. We kinda rushed through it, we met a fellow, his friend and her niece on the bus there and walked with them. His name (he lived in Dublin for 3 years) was Hori and he was an older fellow, 60ish I think. He was taking Chinese lessons from the sister of Xui (Siu is going to get you closer to the pronunciation) and the sister’s daughter Lei, who looked maybe 12. It was tough to guess Xui’s age, my first thought was early to mid 30s, but her daughter has been studying at Julliard since last August. Xui was practicing her English as she plans to visit her daughter next year. Hori was the one who showed me the first Tokugawa shogun’s shrine/grave and his son’s. Another thing for my reading list is Japanese early history. The Meiji restoration and after doesn’t interest me but before has me fascinated. We’re on the train back to Namba and the view is amazing. I try not to think about the narrow winding purchase the train must have on the side of the mountain. There are high misty green peaks in every direction, bottomless valleys. Tall trees scraping the sky with bamboo shooting up – the stalks are as large as my arm, and cycads/sago palms making the scene even more exotic. We had lunch with them then hopped off the bus separately to look at a shrine complex. We’re hoping to be able to meet up with Akemi for dinner when we get to Osaka.
2:23pm
What I sketched [ed: or tried to type in actual drawing to poor effect] was a monument I saw all over the graveyard. I also saw the monument to the first Tokugawa shogun, and another for his son. There were new looking versions of the above monument and others dripping with moss. Some had writing and others appeared plains, though I didn’t pay enough attention to see....
What I sketched [ed: or tried to type in actual drawing to poor effect] was a monument I saw all over the graveyard. I also saw the monument to the first Tokugawa shogun, and another for his son. There were new looking versions of the above monument and others dripping with moss. Some had writing and others appeared plains, though I didn’t pay enough attention to see....
Wednesday, July 20, 2005
7:13pm We’re on the train to Minato-ya in Ako for okonomiyaki. I haven’t eaten all day but am not all that hungry. I’ve been drinking soda and juice and gatorade-y beverages all day which seem to have taken care of my blood sugar. It occurred to me that one thing I haven’t done is order food for myself yet.
(Minato-ya: met someone who may have known Emily - Matt. Ask Emily - Matthew Lerish of Barrington?)
(Minato-ya: met someone who may have known Emily - Matt. Ask Emily - Matthew Lerish of Barrington?)
6:17pm:
In any case, the funny thing. There was a coin operated toy in plastic egg dispenser like you find in US grocery stores. One had robo-pandas that looked like they were supposed to fight each other. All of a sudden I’m sad I didn’t pick one up. Actually, no I’m not. I haven’t bought any souvenirs nad I don’t really feel any true drive to. I think this is the most valuable thing I’ll bring back with me. I feel quite foolish for having brought my laptop and knitting and books. How did I think I’d have any time or need to knit or write something else.
In any case, the funny thing. There was a coin operated toy in plastic egg dispenser like you find in US grocery stores. One had robo-pandas that looked like they were supposed to fight each other. All of a sudden I’m sad I didn’t pick one up. Actually, no I’m not. I haven’t bought any souvenirs nad I don’t really feel any true drive to. I think this is the most valuable thing I’ll bring back with me. I feel quite foolish for having brought my laptop and knitting and books. How did I think I’d have any time or need to knit or write something else.
6:07pm:I was just remembering something cool Alex pointed out in Kobe. There are parking garages that take up only maybe 4-6 cars worth of land space but are ten stories tall. You drive your car into an opening at ground level where your car is picked up and put into a spot up inside the parking garage (you get out at ground level). In Nara I saw something else that struck me as funny. Side note: we’re pulling into Himeji station and I can see Himeji-jo from here. It’s tall but was also built on a hill and must have been beautiful and dominating (more so than now) before the area was developed. It was built approximately 400 years ago
5:20pm:
Today I also got to experience nature's belt. For pants that are waist-high it’s hips, but those are impossible to find now. These pants tend to fall down a bit but have stayed up very well – they’re glued in place with sweat. Which means I can’t pull them up that last little bit but also that they don’t fall down any further. I had planned to be back by 5pm but dawdled in Nara too long. I called Alex before getting on my beloved shinkansen with smoking car to let him know I’d be back 6:30ish. It’s that magic hour for the rice fields right now. It’s not sunset yet but the sun is low enough for the sky to have the faintest golden cast. I think it’s only in the largest cities and only in parts of them, where you don’t see green hills on the horizon not truly masked just a touch hazy from the mist.
Today I also got to experience nature's belt. For pants that are waist-high it’s hips, but those are impossible to find now. These pants tend to fall down a bit but have stayed up very well – they’re glued in place with sweat. Which means I can’t pull them up that last little bit but also that they don’t fall down any further. I had planned to be back by 5pm but dawdled in Nara too long. I called Alex before getting on my beloved shinkansen with smoking car to let him know I’d be back 6:30ish. It’s that magic hour for the rice fields right now. It’s not sunset yet but the sun is low enough for the sky to have the faintest golden cast. I think it’s only in the largest cities and only in parts of them, where you don’t see green hills on the horizon not truly masked just a touch hazy from the mist.
4:47pm:
I still can’t get over how large the insects are. We’re stopped at Momoyama station, or were a moment ago, and there was a dead moth thing on the platform that had a body the size of my pinky finger. Last night I squealed like, well, a girl at a beetle in the hallway of Aioi station, maybe 20 feet from the exit, it was maybe three (more than two) inches long, with antennae like antlers. I didn’t see it until I nearly stepped on it.
I still can’t get over how large the insects are. We’re stopped at Momoyama station, or were a moment ago, and there was a dead moth thing on the platform that had a body the size of my pinky finger. Last night I squealed like, well, a girl at a beetle in the hallway of Aioi station, maybe 20 feet from the exit, it was maybe three (more than two) inches long, with antennae like antlers. I didn’t see it until I nearly stepped on it.
4:31pm:I want to read up on Shinto. I want to come back some day. I don’t know that I’d want to live here (though I’d be open to being convinced if there was ever reason) but I’m already thinking about coming back sometime in the future to get something new out of the trip. I’ve got lots of room left in this book, maybe I can just add to this same book
4:05pm
On the Rapid (a touch faster than Local) back to Kyoto. Nara is fantastic. I could have easily done with an extra day, or even two. I initially sat down in a backward facing seat, which was nice for saying goodbye to Nara. I just switched to a forward facing seat. I’m in the first set of seats in the lead car. There’s no one across from me so not only can I see what’s coming out the side windows but also out the front. Fantastic but a little nerve wracking when there’s a fast approaching train on the neighboring track. It’s close enough that if the window opened (which it doesn’t) and I stuck my arm out (which I wouldn’t) I could touch the other train as it passed. There are two safety (reflective vests and hard hats) looking guys in the cabin with the conductor... I wasn’t worried yet.. And they just got off. It almost feels as if they just hitched a lift. I know I’m really going to treasure this later but I have moments of shaking myself to remind myself to take a break and look out the window. Having all my memories be of writing in this book is no good.
On the Rapid (a touch faster than Local) back to Kyoto. Nara is fantastic. I could have easily done with an extra day, or even two. I initially sat down in a backward facing seat, which was nice for saying goodbye to Nara. I just switched to a forward facing seat. I’m in the first set of seats in the lead car. There’s no one across from me so not only can I see what’s coming out the side windows but also out the front. Fantastic but a little nerve wracking when there’s a fast approaching train on the neighboring track. It’s close enough that if the window opened (which it doesn’t) and I stuck my arm out (which I wouldn’t) I could touch the other train as it passed. There are two safety (reflective vests and hard hats) looking guys in the cabin with the conductor... I wasn’t worried yet.. And they just got off. It almost feels as if they just hitched a lift. I know I’m really going to treasure this later but I have moments of shaking myself to remind myself to take a break and look out the window. Having all my memories be of writing in this book is no good.
3:12pm:
I should head back soon. Wednesdays at 7pm there’s a regular gathering of international English teachers and other people at Minato-ya Okonomiyaki in Ako that I’m looking forward to. I’m sitting in a downstairs area where there’s a café, gift shop, bathrooms and a few additional displays. One was wooden carved hands in different positions from buddhist sculpture. I’m hoping I can be forgiven for thinking the last one was the international symbol for “up your butt.” The explanatory signs were all in Japanese and one hand was cupped into a vertical tube and the other had a pointing index finger inserted into said tube.
I should head back soon. Wednesdays at 7pm there’s a regular gathering of international English teachers and other people at Minato-ya Okonomiyaki in Ako that I’m looking forward to. I’m sitting in a downstairs area where there’s a café, gift shop, bathrooms and a few additional displays. One was wooden carved hands in different positions from buddhist sculpture. I’m hoping I can be forgiven for thinking the last one was the international symbol for “up your butt.” The explanatory signs were all in Japanese and one hand was cupped into a vertical tube and the other had a pointing index finger inserted into said tube.
2:45pm:
I think the Kannon sculptures are my favorite. There’s some creative math that goes into it. Kannon is said (or sometimes is said) to have 1,000 arms. Trying to sculpt this is tricky. Kannon with 1000 arms will be depicted with 40 arms, with the idea that each arm saves 25 worlds, so the 40 arms seen are actually 1000.
I think the Kannon sculptures are my favorite. There’s some creative math that goes into it. Kannon is said (or sometimes is said) to have 1,000 arms. Trying to sculpt this is tricky. Kannon with 1000 arms will be depicted with 40 arms, with the idea that each arm saves 25 worlds, so the 40 arms seen are actually 1000.
2:37pm:
I’m in Nara national museum. The focus seems to be on Buddhist sculpture. Once again, I have two main thoughts. One is that Julia should be here instead of me, she’d wet herself. The second came to mind considering the intricacy and skill that went into these sculptures which are easily a thousand years old. I’m descended from savages. I’m proud of them and what they did, but... wow. The folds of the fabric are what get me... there will be trailing ends of robes that appear suspended in an instant, ruffled in a slight breeze. I’m sitting looking at two sculptures of Kannon with paint that hints of... I can still see some of the painted designs and their estimated date is the 12th century.
I’m in Nara national museum. The focus seems to be on Buddhist sculpture. Once again, I have two main thoughts. One is that Julia should be here instead of me, she’d wet herself. The second came to mind considering the intricacy and skill that went into these sculptures which are easily a thousand years old. I’m descended from savages. I’m proud of them and what they did, but... wow. The folds of the fabric are what get me... there will be trailing ends of robes that appear suspended in an instant, ruffled in a slight breeze. I’m sitting looking at two sculptures of Kannon with paint that hints of... I can still see some of the painted designs and their estimated date is the 12th century.
1:44pm:
Have figured out two things. The gongs I keep hearing aren’t according to any schedule. The gong is run by each person as they go to pray. And the piles of small and not so small brown pellets are deer shit. I read this in a guidebook and forgot. There are semi-tame deer that wander the ground here. I’m sitting on a shady bench and there are easily two dozen deer lying down, panting and trimming the grass within fifteen or twenty feet. After walking through this park the whole taking-off-ones-shoes-when-entering-a-home-or-temple makes a lot more sense.
Have figured out two things. The gongs I keep hearing aren’t according to any schedule. The gong is run by each person as they go to pray. And the piles of small and not so small brown pellets are deer shit. I read this in a guidebook and forgot. There are semi-tame deer that wander the ground here. I’m sitting on a shady bench and there are easily two dozen deer lying down, panting and trimming the grass within fifteen or twenty feet. After walking through this park the whole taking-off-ones-shoes-when-entering-a-home-or-temple makes a lot more sense.
12:26pm:
My ema:
“Thank you for all of my many blessings. Please continue to share the beauty of the world with me and share these blessings with all.”
Ema are votive pictures on paper or wood upon which a personal request has been written. It is offered to a buddha or bodhisattva (I picked the big golden buddha in the middle) then hung on a rack at either end of the hall. There is a strong scent of incense in this temple – I just found a sign which says it is called “YakushiKoh.” I’m feeling very blessed for the time I had in here on my own, to write out my ema and offer it to Buddha. Just a moment after, as I hung my ema on the rack, an older western couple came in, and then a young western man. While I was writing my ema a couple that looked reasonably local offered their prayers.
My ema:
“Thank you for all of my many blessings. Please continue to share the beauty of the world with me and share these blessings with all.”
Ema are votive pictures on paper or wood upon which a personal request has been written. It is offered to a buddha or bodhisattva (I picked the big golden buddha in the middle) then hung on a rack at either end of the hall. There is a strong scent of incense in this temple – I just found a sign which says it is called “YakushiKoh.” I’m feeling very blessed for the time I had in here on my own, to write out my ema and offer it to Buddha. Just a moment after, as I hung my ema on the rack, an older western couple came in, and then a young western man. While I was writing my ema a couple that looked reasonably local offered their prayers.
12:03pm:
I’ve never purchased cargo pants before because having pockets of stuff on top of my already generous thighs has never struck me as flattering. However, right now they’re sounding very attractive from a utility standpoint. Right now I’m wearing chino/jean styled pants and I have to keep transferring things to and from my bag because the pockets fill up so quickly.
I’ve never purchased cargo pants before because having pockets of stuff on top of my already generous thighs has never struck me as flattering. However, right now they’re sounding very attractive from a utility standpoint. Right now I’m wearing chino/jean styled pants and I have to keep transferring things to and from my bag because the pockets fill up so quickly.
11:54am:
I’m in Nara, and am sitting at a pond. I’m also feeling a masure of pride. From the train station I just started walking based on a hunch and my unreliable sense of direction. I stepped into a temple enclosure about halfway here but quickly stepped out. It looked like a working temple rather than a sightseeing one. Shortly after I stepped into a tourist office for directions only to find out I was going the right way after all. I’m taking a picture of the pond. As I walked up I saw some logs near one side with what I thought were bronze turtles but now that I’m closer I think they’re all real. The last few minutes gongs have periodically run out. I wonder if there’s a changing of the monks going on, rather like a changing of the guards.
I’m in Nara, and am sitting at a pond. I’m also feeling a masure of pride. From the train station I just started walking based on a hunch and my unreliable sense of direction. I stepped into a temple enclosure about halfway here but quickly stepped out. It looked like a working temple rather than a sightseeing one. Shortly after I stepped into a tourist office for directions only to find out I was going the right way after all. I’m taking a picture of the pond. As I walked up I saw some logs near one side with what I thought were bronze turtles but now that I’m closer I think they’re all real. The last few minutes gongs have periodically run out. I wonder if there’s a changing of the monks going on, rather like a changing of the guards.
10:00am:I just hopped on the train Alex told me not to take because it would be slow. However it seemed the surest and I don’t mind slow as it will give me more time to watch out the train window. The local trains aren’t as new/modern as the shinkansen. They remind me of the subway in New York. This one has something I hadn’t noticed in other trains we’ve taken which is a rotating/angled fan in the ceiling. It’s not air conditioning but it does feel quite nice. There was supposed to be a faster trin in 20 minutes but I wasn’t sure if I was on the right track so taking the train right here right now saying “For Nara” on the front and on each car seemed preferable. I also feel reassured as I see two women who look as touristy as I do sitting on the bench across from me. I look more lost I expect but they are flipping through guidebooks. I think I win. The other day in Kyoto subway stations I saw a number of what looked like wanted posters featuring three people. A photograph of each as well. Side note: the aboveground trains all have adjustable shades to block out the sun somewhat. Especially this time of year it’s a very good idea, but it makes it more difficult to read the station signs. But back to the wanted posters. I asked if that’s what they were and was told that they are because these people released Sarin in the train. Just as I’m starting to freak out a bit they go on to explain that these posteres are for the Sarin attack ten or so years ago – Irecall seeing US news coverage of the event. They have never been caught in that time but the posters are still up. I recall that the ones I saw looked brand new. Alex mentioned that even when he spent two weeks in China at any point he would have recognized any of those three people (two men and a woman) at a glance – he’s seen those images so often. I glanced again at the tourist women across from me; their books appear to be in German. Two things to remember: 1) Put on sunscreen when I get to Nara. Apparently, per Alex, people in Japan rarely use sunscreen. It looks like the women rely more on umbrellas when they want to avoid the sun. 2) I want to ask Alex for Akemi’s address to send a thank you gift. Come to think of it, I’d like to send one to Alex too so I can include it with his. I just moved to a seat where I can see out the door and can try to catch the station names as they go by. Something else I’ve seen that I like is a few women wearing over the elbow gloves, some fingerless and some not. I assume these are also for avoiding the sun but will try to ask Alex to make sure.
9:39am:
I also go tto thinking about why I like castles so much. The shrines and temples are beautiful and peaceful but my favorites have been the two castles, Himeji-jo in Himeji and Jinjo-jo in Kyoto. I liked Himeji-jo best because it was most obviously designed for defense/war, and reminded me of castles I’ve seen in Europe, but, well, prettier. Jinjo-jo was beautiful but seemed more like a fortified mansion/political office than a fighting castle. I suppose the same romantic idea can be applied to why women like soldiers and firefighters and the like. They are in theory devoted to protecting your life and safety, in a primal sense what women look for in a man anyway.
I also go tto thinking about why I like castles so much. The shrines and temples are beautiful and peaceful but my favorites have been the two castles, Himeji-jo in Himeji and Jinjo-jo in Kyoto. I liked Himeji-jo best because it was most obviously designed for defense/war, and reminded me of castles I’ve seen in Europe, but, well, prettier. Jinjo-jo was beautiful but seemed more like a fortified mansion/political office than a fighting castle. I suppose the same romantic idea can be applied to why women like soldiers and firefighters and the like. They are in theory devoted to protecting your life and safety, in a primal sense what women look for in a man anyway.
9:13am:
Just passed Nishi-Akashi station, I believe the next one is Shin-Kobe. Shin-Kobe and Shin-Osaka are the train stations where the shinkansen (fastest trains) stop for Kobe and Osaka so to catch the other local trains you have to take another train to the main stations. I think I also like the idea of taking the shinkansen as far as I can because it’s very comfortable and to beat a dead horse, I like the smoking car. I don’t always quite understand where its okay to smoke (I haven’t been smoking very much) so it’s a safe place. Two things that are pretty/fun to see: One that Alex pointed out is in the rice fields. The rice fields look like perfect but very long grass fields, a perfect shade of kelly green. If you catch them at the right time of day at the right angle, the water at the base of each rice plant will reflect the sky and whatever else might be around. There is also a line of shops called “Snack Madam.” Okay this is just silly. As an English speaker, I think about punctuation. The polite offering of a snack to a lady would be “Snack, madam?” To my mind current absence of punctuation means you’re going there to visit the snack madam, for a torrid private moment, short or long depending on your budget and the quality of the snack. Which does have its arguments in its favor. Say if you want to smack your lips or eat messily, you can do so in private without being rude. Frosting in your hair? Perfectly okay. In Kobe the other day we bought cantaloupe wedges on a stick (100 yen). They were delicious and very juicy, which also meant that I was dripping cantaloupe juice all over my hands, chin, shirt, bag, pants leg, shoes, and the street. A nice private air conditioned place to do this and then clean/wash up after getting so sticky, I would have paid extra for that.
Just passed Nishi-Akashi station, I believe the next one is Shin-Kobe. Shin-Kobe and Shin-Osaka are the train stations where the shinkansen (fastest trains) stop for Kobe and Osaka so to catch the other local trains you have to take another train to the main stations. I think I also like the idea of taking the shinkansen as far as I can because it’s very comfortable and to beat a dead horse, I like the smoking car. I don’t always quite understand where its okay to smoke (I haven’t been smoking very much) so it’s a safe place. Two things that are pretty/fun to see: One that Alex pointed out is in the rice fields. The rice fields look like perfect but very long grass fields, a perfect shade of kelly green. If you catch them at the right time of day at the right angle, the water at the base of each rice plant will reflect the sky and whatever else might be around. There is also a line of shops called “Snack Madam.” Okay this is just silly. As an English speaker, I think about punctuation. The polite offering of a snack to a lady would be “Snack, madam?” To my mind current absence of punctuation means you’re going there to visit the snack madam, for a torrid private moment, short or long depending on your budget and the quality of the snack. Which does have its arguments in its favor. Say if you want to smack your lips or eat messily, you can do so in private without being rude. Frosting in your hair? Perfectly okay. In Kobe the other day we bought cantaloupe wedges on a stick (100 yen). They were delicious and very juicy, which also meant that I was dripping cantaloupe juice all over my hands, chin, shirt, bag, pants leg, shoes, and the street. A nice private air conditioned place to do this and then clean/wash up after getting so sticky, I would have paid extra for that.
8:50am:
10:20 Miyako train Kyoto-Nara
Above is the train Alex recommended I catch in Kyoto to get to Nara. I’m being silly stubborn right now. It would be faster to go through Osaka. This train will stop at Shin-Osaka station and from there a train to Nara. This would be distinctly faster. However in my mind I associate Kyoto with Nara because they’re listed together in the guidebooks and my “brain” (not the reasonable bit, of course) wants to go to Kyoto then Nara. And I just saw yet another Ferris wheel.
10:20 Miyako train Kyoto-Nara
Above is the train Alex recommended I catch in Kyoto to get to Nara. I’m being silly stubborn right now. It would be faster to go through Osaka. This train will stop at Shin-Osaka station and from there a train to Nara. This would be distinctly faster. However in my mind I associate Kyoto with Nara because they’re listed together in the guidebooks and my “brain” (not the reasonable bit, of course) wants to go to Kyoto then Nara. And I just saw yet another Ferris wheel.
Tuesday, July 19, 2005
Monday, July 18, 2005
10:57pm:
I plan to try to make it up to him, or at least assuage my guilt by buying a bunch of the juice Alex likes that is available in a vending machine on the Aioi shinkansen platform. There was a moment of excitement at Ninna-ji s we made our way out because the machine there carried the juice, but it was empty. I really like the profusion of vending machines. In part I expect due to being a bit anti-social in general, but also it lets me bypass any confusion or stress in trying to complete a transaction with someone when I don’t speak Japanese. Everyone has been unfailingly polite and helpful but it still stresses me a bit.
I plan to try to make it up to him, or at least assuage my guilt by buying a bunch of the juice Alex likes that is available in a vending machine on the Aioi shinkansen platform. There was a moment of excitement at Ninna-ji s we made our way out because the machine there carried the juice, but it was empty. I really like the profusion of vending machines. In part I expect due to being a bit anti-social in general, but also it lets me bypass any confusion or stress in trying to complete a transaction with someone when I don’t speak Japanese. Everyone has been unfailingly polite and helpful but it still stresses me a bit.
10:05pm:
I am being extra-wussy. My JR Railpass lets me take the expensive fast train. Alex is taking the slower one to save money. I am taking Hikari 387 to Okayama, stopping in Aioi. I am glad to be getting there faster but not proud of my choice, not taking one for the team, especially when Alex and Akemi were so nice when I was cranky yesterday. Extra-double guilt – I just moved forward to a smoking car.
I am being extra-wussy. My JR Railpass lets me take the expensive fast train. Alex is taking the slower one to save money. I am taking Hikari 387 to Okayama, stopping in Aioi. I am glad to be getting there faster but not proud of my choice, not taking one for the team, especially when Alex and Akemi were so nice when I was cranky yesterday. Extra-double guilt – I just moved forward to a smoking car.
6:17pm:
Café du Monde, Kyoto station, 2nd (I think) floor. Beignets in box of three. Each Alex, Akemi, and I had one. The original Café du Monde is in new Orleans. Alex associates me with his trip to New Orleans because I recommended/introduced him to Rick and Jenny, neighbors of my parents who moved to New Orleans for a few years before moving back. I think that was in the first year or two I was in college. He thought it was a full circle sort of thing that we were at the sort-of-same café in Japan.
Café du Monde, Kyoto station, 2nd (I think) floor. Beignets in box of three. Each Alex, Akemi, and I had one. The original Café du Monde is in new Orleans. Alex associates me with his trip to New Orleans because I recommended/introduced him to Rick and Jenny, neighbors of my parents who moved to New Orleans for a few years before moving back. I think that was in the first year or two I was in college. He thought it was a full circle sort of thing that we were at the sort-of-same café in Japan.
4:59pm:
Ninna-ji – got there shortly before closing, got to take many photos before we were kicked out, including a pagoda. Last photo - mamori garu - fierce looking god characters in front of the temple, “ah” and “nn” are mouth expressions, said to signify that they protect everything from the beginning to the end of the alphabet, what those sounds are.
www.qoo.jp - fruity juice in vending machines
Lawson - convenience stores, seems to be one every few blocks, seen them in Aioi, Osaka, Kobe, and Kyoto
Decorative tile roofs are on private houses. Generally not as ornate as the temples and castles but some get very close. I’m blown away that people live in houses as beautiful as this every day.
Ninna-ji – got there shortly before closing, got to take many photos before we were kicked out, including a pagoda. Last photo - mamori garu - fierce looking god characters in front of the temple, “ah” and “nn” are mouth expressions, said to signify that they protect everything from the beginning to the end of the alphabet, what those sounds are.
www.qoo.jp - fruity juice in vending machines
Lawson - convenience stores, seems to be one every few blocks, seen them in Aioi, Osaka, Kobe, and Kyoto
Decorative tile roofs are on private houses. Generally not as ornate as the temples and castles but some get very close. I’m blown away that people live in houses as beautiful as this every day.
11:46am:
I know I get overly concerned about plumbing. I’m a bad camper, or at least I probably am. I’ve only been once and only “went” once – a very proud moment. There’s now a patch of moss near a large tree on Jill’s parents’ land near Mount Baker that is my territory. I had a bit of a shock on Saturday seeing my first squat toilet. I’ve heard about them but yet find them quite intimidating.
Shiga – Museum of Modern Art
I know I get overly concerned about plumbing. I’m a bad camper, or at least I probably am. I’ve only been once and only “went” once – a very proud moment. There’s now a patch of moss near a large tree on Jill’s parents’ land near Mount Baker that is my territory. I had a bit of a shock on Saturday seeing my first squat toilet. I’ve heard about them but yet find them quite intimidating.
Shiga – Museum of Modern Art
6:51am Japan:
I’m feeling like a lion with a thorn in my paw. In part because of my silly sunburn. I have an odd off-center “V” sunburn line on my chest from the shirt I wore Saturday, but the worst is my upper back. It has taught me that I am “vanilla” and simply need to accept it. The leather strap of my purse pulling and rubbing against the red, sore, chapped skin is just excruciating. Not good, not exciting, just ow. I feel a bit bad – I got pretty cranky by the end of the night yesterday. I was nearly in tears by the time we went into the ramen restaurant. The more I think about it, I think it’s quite largely my fault and that I need to work on my communication with Alex. I need to say bluntly, loudly, and often what I need until it gets done. On the way to Akemi’s (where we spend the night and where I’m writing from now, I think I saw my first yakuza. The area of Osaka where Akemi lives is near an area that lookslike what is portrayed in films seen in America. Tiny narrow streets with tall buildings, packed with shops, neon lights, with having to leap out of the way of cars and cyclists. Most of the cars will slow down. At one point a black Mercedes honks loudly and zips past comparatively quickly after we jump to the side into the six inches of clearance between the dozens of bikes parked against the building and the space the car needed. The car slowed down enough for Alex to nod (polite greeting like) at the driver and for the driver to do so in return. The windows looked tinted but I could see two young men wearing white t-shirts/undershirts. I tried to look for tattoos but no luck. It has been explained to me that one of the initiation rites for the yakuza is a full “shirt” tattoo, one that can be covered by a short-sleeve t-shirt, but takes up all the skin underneath. So many public/hotel pools and onzen/hot springs don’t allow people with tattoos because they don’t want to be seen as a place where gangsters congregate. It came up in conversation with Mr. Takei how few tattoo parlors there are here, which prompted me to look for them. I’ve found four so far here in Osaka, but it is Japan’s... I believe third largest city.
I’m feeling like a lion with a thorn in my paw. In part because of my silly sunburn. I have an odd off-center “V” sunburn line on my chest from the shirt I wore Saturday, but the worst is my upper back. It has taught me that I am “vanilla” and simply need to accept it. The leather strap of my purse pulling and rubbing against the red, sore, chapped skin is just excruciating. Not good, not exciting, just ow. I feel a bit bad – I got pretty cranky by the end of the night yesterday. I was nearly in tears by the time we went into the ramen restaurant. The more I think about it, I think it’s quite largely my fault and that I need to work on my communication with Alex. I need to say bluntly, loudly, and often what I need until it gets done. On the way to Akemi’s (where we spend the night and where I’m writing from now, I think I saw my first yakuza. The area of Osaka where Akemi lives is near an area that lookslike what is portrayed in films seen in America. Tiny narrow streets with tall buildings, packed with shops, neon lights, with having to leap out of the way of cars and cyclists. Most of the cars will slow down. At one point a black Mercedes honks loudly and zips past comparatively quickly after we jump to the side into the six inches of clearance between the dozens of bikes parked against the building and the space the car needed. The car slowed down enough for Alex to nod (polite greeting like) at the driver and for the driver to do so in return. The windows looked tinted but I could see two young men wearing white t-shirts/undershirts. I tried to look for tattoos but no luck. It has been explained to me that one of the initiation rites for the yakuza is a full “shirt” tattoo, one that can be covered by a short-sleeve t-shirt, but takes up all the skin underneath. So many public/hotel pools and onzen/hot springs don’t allow people with tattoos because they don’t want to be seen as a place where gangsters congregate. It came up in conversation with Mr. Takei how few tattoo parlors there are here, which prompted me to look for them. I’ve found four so far here in Osaka, but it is Japan’s... I believe third largest city.
Sunday, July 17, 2005
7:13pm:
The subways in Kyoto have special doors to prevent people from jumping in front of the trains. It sounds as though it happens often enough that it’s more of a time/cost saving measure. There are also large marble-looking columns. I learned from Akemi that they feel cool and are good to lean against. I’m pressing my upper back where my sunburn is the worst against the collumn and it does feel wonderful. I can’t remember how many “L”s there are in column so I’m spelling collumn both ways so I can hopefully be right half the time. We’re waiting for a subway train to go to kaiten sushi. “Kaiten” refers to the conveyor belt.. You pay by the number of plates. A chain of restaurants Alex has visited is Kappa sushi.
The subways in Kyoto have special doors to prevent people from jumping in front of the trains. It sounds as though it happens often enough that it’s more of a time/cost saving measure. There are also large marble-looking columns. I learned from Akemi that they feel cool and are good to lean against. I’m pressing my upper back where my sunburn is the worst against the collumn and it does feel wonderful. I can’t remember how many “L”s there are in column so I’m spelling collumn both ways so I can hopefully be right half the time. We’re waiting for a subway train to go to kaiten sushi. “Kaiten” refers to the conveyor belt.. You pay by the number of plates. A chain of restaurants Alex has visited is Kappa sushi.
11:42am:
Himeji-jo is amazingly beautiful. Impressive like European castles I’ve seen, and Mr. Takei enjoyed pointing out the defensive aspects of the castle (trapdoors for throwing stones, hot oil, water or poop even, and tiny trap doors for shooting pistols/guns/flintlocks). It was built in the early 1600s. However, in addition to being excellently prepared for defense, it is also incredibly beautiful. I took a lot of photographs but I doubt any of them will capture it well enough. In silly news, I got such a sunburn walking around yesterday.....
Trade Money with Alex Log
Aquarium - 2,000 yen
Restaurant - 20,000 yen
Movies filmed at Himeji-jo that I should watch:
Kagemusha
Ran
and maybe The Last Samurai
Plus I’d like to re-watch Hidden Fortress if I can find it.
Himeji-jo is amazingly beautiful. Impressive like European castles I’ve seen, and Mr. Takei enjoyed pointing out the defensive aspects of the castle (trapdoors for throwing stones, hot oil, water or poop even, and tiny trap doors for shooting pistols/guns/flintlocks). It was built in the early 1600s. However, in addition to being excellently prepared for defense, it is also incredibly beautiful. I took a lot of photographs but I doubt any of them will capture it well enough. In silly news, I got such a sunburn walking around yesterday.....
Trade Money with Alex Log
Aquarium - 2,000 yen
Restaurant - 20,000 yen
Movies filmed at Himeji-jo that I should watch:
Kagemusha
Ran
and maybe The Last Samurai
Plus I’d like to re-watch Hidden Fortress if I can find it.
8:12am Japan:
We’re on a train headed for Himeji, to see Himeji castle (Himeji-jo) which is a worldwide historic site or somesuch. We were running late to catch the train, I had a head start and got to the station on my own from Alex’s (proud moment!) And Alex caught up with me there and we ran for the train. We’re meeting a teacher Alex works with named Mr. Takei, who was kind enough to offer a tour. We’re debating between going to the Gion Matsuri festival in Kyoto or wandering Osaka.
We’re on a train headed for Himeji, to see Himeji castle (Himeji-jo) which is a worldwide historic site or somesuch. We were running late to catch the train, I had a head start and got to the station on my own from Alex’s (proud moment!) And Alex caught up with me there and we ran for the train. We’re meeting a teacher Alex works with named Mr. Takei, who was kind enough to offer a tour. We’re debating between going to the Gion Matsuri festival in Kyoto or wandering Osaka.
Saturday, July 16, 2005
4:19pm:
We walked through a grocery store after going to the garden and getting ramen. The shirt I’m wearing is low enough in the back that I think the top of my tattoo is poking out. An older fellow (maybe in his 60s) asked me about my tattoo in halting but good English, mentioning that women in Japan almost never get tattoos. Then the part where I got stuck for an answer... I can’t remember his exact wording which would be helpful. He asked what my idea or statement was. I expect he had run into difficulty in finding the exact words, and the ones he did use stumped me. How do I explain what it is, why I got it, and what I want it to say to people. Now that I’ve said that, I want to use a Sharpie to draw a word bubble with different words each day. Topics of silly conversation today were how to apologize. “Sumimasen” is more general, sort of sorry/thank you and so forth. “Gomen nasai” is more specific for when you have something to be sorry for. My example: “kicking their mother.” Alex’s example: “grating their baby.” We’re trying to plan our how to fit things in and Alex was apologizing for planning and changing plans with Akemi without talking to me. Which I’m fine with – my schedule is totally open. Told alex he only has to consult with me before taking me to the giant insect petting zoo and interpretive museum. And the fellow in the supermarket who asked about my tattoo, when I didn’t say anything Alex hopped in and said that it’s not unusual in Seattle, then explained Seattle in relation to baseball and Ichiro, and the fellow wasn’t helped, he explained that he plays rugby and doesn’t follow baseball.
We walked through a grocery store after going to the garden and getting ramen. The shirt I’m wearing is low enough in the back that I think the top of my tattoo is poking out. An older fellow (maybe in his 60s) asked me about my tattoo in halting but good English, mentioning that women in Japan almost never get tattoos. Then the part where I got stuck for an answer... I can’t remember his exact wording which would be helpful. He asked what my idea or statement was. I expect he had run into difficulty in finding the exact words, and the ones he did use stumped me. How do I explain what it is, why I got it, and what I want it to say to people. Now that I’ve said that, I want to use a Sharpie to draw a word bubble with different words each day. Topics of silly conversation today were how to apologize. “Sumimasen” is more general, sort of sorry/thank you and so forth. “Gomen nasai” is more specific for when you have something to be sorry for. My example: “kicking their mother.” Alex’s example: “grating their baby.” We’re trying to plan our how to fit things in and Alex was apologizing for planning and changing plans with Akemi without talking to me. Which I’m fine with – my schedule is totally open. Told alex he only has to consult with me before taking me to the giant insect petting zoo and interpretive museum. And the fellow in the supermarket who asked about my tattoo, when I didn’t say anything Alex hopped in and said that it’s not unusual in Seattle, then explained Seattle in relation to baseball and Ichiro, and the fellow wasn’t helped, he explained that he plays rugby and doesn’t follow baseball.
4:08pm:
I think I know why I like seeing drying laundry on balconies. Alex was talking earlier about a national attitude/trend towards conformity, school and other uniform and the like. I saw a huge apartment building out the train window a moment ago as we left Kobe. Almost every apartment had something on their balcony, plants or clothing. It was colorful and wild and it made me wonder if this was like exhibitionism – what can you learn about someone based on what’s drying on their balcony. Perhaps that’s my own American upbringing forcing me to try to find some way in which each person is acting to be an individual.
I think I know why I like seeing drying laundry on balconies. Alex was talking earlier about a national attitude/trend towards conformity, school and other uniform and the like. I saw a huge apartment building out the train window a moment ago as we left Kobe. Almost every apartment had something on their balcony, plants or clothing. It was colorful and wild and it made me wonder if this was like exhibitionism – what can you learn about someone based on what’s drying on their balcony. Perhaps that’s my own American upbringing forcing me to try to find some way in which each person is acting to be an individual.
9:37am:
We’re on a train bound for Kobe after a quick transfer. We’re making plans to go to Himeji Castle tomorrow – the Japanese teacher that Alex works with at the high school is a volunteer tour guide at the castle and has done so for maybe 20 years. In Kobe we’re planning to visit a huge garden, the Chinatown in Kobe, and a particular Ramen shop. One thing I’ve found out is that clothes dryers are relatively uncommon here. So a given feature of the human landscape is clothes drying on balconies. This seems to be seen in a large minority of any apartments you happen to see at any one time as well as in homes – though they’re harder to spot for houses.
We’re on a train bound for Kobe after a quick transfer. We’re making plans to go to Himeji Castle tomorrow – the Japanese teacher that Alex works with at the high school is a volunteer tour guide at the castle and has done so for maybe 20 years. In Kobe we’re planning to visit a huge garden, the Chinatown in Kobe, and a particular Ramen shop. One thing I’ve found out is that clothes dryers are relatively uncommon here. So a given feature of the human landscape is clothes drying on balconies. This seems to be seen in a large minority of any apartments you happen to see at any one time as well as in homes – though they’re harder to spot for houses.
6:20am Japan:
I’m awake, have a full tummy, and am just generally in high spirits. The last hour or two on the train last night were almost akin to torture – it was that difficult to stay awake. My train came in an hour earlier than planned, so I called Alex’s cell from a pay phone. My calling card wouldn’t work without the card itself (I just have the number). I stood outside and had a cigarette while waiting for him to come get me, and my calves were trembling. It’s a short walk from the train station to Alex’s apartment. He gave me a short tour then put me to bed. I woke up at 5am local time which I think is very good. That’s what time the cats wake me up at home, and means I probably got six to seven hours of sleep. It gives me a lot of hope that my internal clock will re-adjust without too much trouble. I just ate two bowls of granola-y cereal in soymilk, not so traditionally Japanese, and am really wanting a cigarette right about now. Alex’s shower is like a hip bath with a little hot water heater next to it with a handheld shower attachment. I’m thinking just a sponge bath kinda thing until my hair needs washing. And no, I don’t know why strange plumbing intimidates me so.
I’m awake, have a full tummy, and am just generally in high spirits. The last hour or two on the train last night were almost akin to torture – it was that difficult to stay awake. My train came in an hour earlier than planned, so I called Alex’s cell from a pay phone. My calling card wouldn’t work without the card itself (I just have the number). I stood outside and had a cigarette while waiting for him to come get me, and my calves were trembling. It’s a short walk from the train station to Alex’s apartment. He gave me a short tour then put me to bed. I woke up at 5am local time which I think is very good. That’s what time the cats wake me up at home, and means I probably got six to seven hours of sleep. It gives me a lot of hope that my internal clock will re-adjust without too much trouble. I just ate two bowls of granola-y cereal in soymilk, not so traditionally Japanese, and am really wanting a cigarette right about now. Alex’s shower is like a hip bath with a little hot water heater next to it with a handheld shower attachment. I’m thinking just a sponge bath kinda thing until my hair needs washing. And no, I don’t know why strange plumbing intimidates me so.
Friday, July 15, 2005
8:02pm:
I’m having a hard time keeping my eyes focused to read my magazine. They want to blur, then shut. I think there are still three or four stops before Aioi. It’s 4am in Seattle now. I think I was awake by 6am this/yesterday morning so I’m getting close to 24 hours awake. I was too wired-feeling on the plane to sleep. I think I was up by shortly after 5am after going to bed at 2am the night before. I wonder that it must be really overcast – it’s very dark out –I didn’t think Japan was at a different enough latitude to have a noticeably shorter day. I finally saw the snack lady come back through the train to close up her cart. I may cry. Not really, but holy mother of Jesus I could use some juice. Which seems slightly odd as I drank an absurd amount on the plane. But I’m not a camel and I understand that they don’t store water, not really
I’m having a hard time keeping my eyes focused to read my magazine. They want to blur, then shut. I think there are still three or four stops before Aioi. It’s 4am in Seattle now. I think I was awake by 6am this/yesterday morning so I’m getting close to 24 hours awake. I was too wired-feeling on the plane to sleep. I think I was up by shortly after 5am after going to bed at 2am the night before. I wonder that it must be really overcast – it’s very dark out –I didn’t think Japan was at a different enough latitude to have a noticeably shorter day. I finally saw the snack lady come back through the train to close up her cart. I may cry. Not really, but holy mother of Jesus I could use some juice. Which seems slightly odd as I drank an absurd amount on the plane. But I’m not a camel and I understand that they don’t store water, not really
6:32pm Japan:
I like that it seems not five minutes can go by without water, whether river, canal, or sea. I like the shades of green. One hears so often about the population density. I think I had the same idea I did about New Engladn and Europe. As though so many people had lived there and for so long that there’d be no green spaces left. And the random steep little hills...
I like that it seems not five minutes can go by without water, whether river, canal, or sea. I like the shades of green. One hears so often about the population density. I think I had the same idea I did about New Engladn and Europe. As though so many people had lived there and for so long that there’d be no green spaces left. And the random steep little hills...
5:59pm Japan:
What I said about Seattle not raining on me when I left, I think Japan might make up for it. Nice fellow on the train from the airport suggested I get an umbrella (I packed one, actually) as it’s the end of the rainy season. Tokyo was sunny, but now (we might be in the suburbs but I’m inclined to think we’ve passed them) the sky is overcast – not the type where you see cloud formations but rather a solid medium-light gray haze. Visibility is minimal, maybe a mile? The street don’t really look wet though as though it might have rained in the past few hours. Then again I’m basing my knowledge on Seattle (chillier and lower humidity) so it may work differently (or rather likely does) here. The fellow on the last train also talked about food, he lived in Osaka (or near it, I wasn’t quite sure) and recommended the same foods Alex mentioned, and specifically referenced their affordability. He told me about a practice that he described as ridiculous (and I didn’t want to argue) that is especially popular in Kyoto. So if you go out for a nice dinner the expense wouldn’t just be the food and other things one would expect in the US, but would also specifically include the quality of the plate/dinner servfice, the same food eaten off a non-descript plate would cost less, and the same food off Wedgewood china would cost more. Which makes sense in its way. I don’t know where we are now, but there was a big apartment building built into/onto sides of a hill, shipyards on what little flat there was, then what looked like sea/ocean so close I’d half think I could reach out and touch it. And addendum to the neatness of trains. We’ve already established the smoking car coolness. The businessman-looking fellow who got on and sat next to me at the last station is having dinner, I think, with a can of beer to accompany, which sprinkled/sprayed my right arm as he opened it. Now I’m extra thirsty. There’s a young child sitting somewhere behind me sounds just like the character of “Ten” from Urusei Yatsura, an anime series from (I think) the 70s.
What I said about Seattle not raining on me when I left, I think Japan might make up for it. Nice fellow on the train from the airport suggested I get an umbrella (I packed one, actually) as it’s the end of the rainy season. Tokyo was sunny, but now (we might be in the suburbs but I’m inclined to think we’ve passed them) the sky is overcast – not the type where you see cloud formations but rather a solid medium-light gray haze. Visibility is minimal, maybe a mile? The street don’t really look wet though as though it might have rained in the past few hours. Then again I’m basing my knowledge on Seattle (chillier and lower humidity) so it may work differently (or rather likely does) here. The fellow on the last train also talked about food, he lived in Osaka (or near it, I wasn’t quite sure) and recommended the same foods Alex mentioned, and specifically referenced their affordability. He told me about a practice that he described as ridiculous (and I didn’t want to argue) that is especially popular in Kyoto. So if you go out for a nice dinner the expense wouldn’t just be the food and other things one would expect in the US, but would also specifically include the quality of the plate/dinner servfice, the same food eaten off a non-descript plate would cost less, and the same food off Wedgewood china would cost more. Which makes sense in its way. I don’t know where we are now, but there was a big apartment building built into/onto sides of a hill, shipyards on what little flat there was, then what looked like sea/ocean so close I’d half think I could reach out and touch it. And addendum to the neatness of trains. We’ve already established the smoking car coolness. The businessman-looking fellow who got on and sat next to me at the last station is having dinner, I think, with a can of beer to accompany, which sprinkled/sprayed my right arm as he opened it. Now I’m extra thirsty. There’s a young child sitting somewhere behind me sounds just like the character of “Ten” from Urusei Yatsura, an anime series from (I think) the 70s.
5:32pm Japan:
I was interrupted from my worry in a lovely way. The fellow sitting next to me struck up a conversation. He was approximately 56 and went to high school in Nokomis Illinois, graduating in 1966. He lives in Tokyo but has a daughter going to school in New Zealand. He taught me the phrases above and was just generally very polite and seemed pleased to be talking to me. His English was very good but he kept saying it wasn’t. Which makes me wonder if I should have denied it when he complimented my pronunciation. I’m on the shinkansen now, which is a very fast train from Tokyo which stops in Aioi. Just from what I can see out the window Tokyo looks fascinating. I managed to buy a lighter at Tokyo station (which I’m sadly really proud of). This train is fast enough that I almost get dizzy looking out the window, I think mostly because the ground/buildings and so forth that are nearest are a blur. If I look at things further away I’m fine. I’m sweating like a... horse. I’m saying horse becaue it is a lot more flattering than pig. Alex warned me that it was hot and very very humid. Aside from the unladylike dripping sweat (ladies glow? You could bottle my “glow”) I really like it. The air feels thicker and soft and fuzzy in a good way. There are also smells I can’t define (aside from the mothball scent in the immigration line, but I blame other travellers) but that are nice. It’s like air wafting out of a sauna. I feel soothed and really thirsty. Alex said that there are food and drinks on these trains; I’ll have to keep and eye out for that.
I was interrupted from my worry in a lovely way. The fellow sitting next to me struck up a conversation. He was approximately 56 and went to high school in Nokomis Illinois, graduating in 1966. He lives in Tokyo but has a daughter going to school in New Zealand. He taught me the phrases above and was just generally very polite and seemed pleased to be talking to me. His English was very good but he kept saying it wasn’t. Which makes me wonder if I should have denied it when he complimented my pronunciation. I’m on the shinkansen now, which is a very fast train from Tokyo which stops in Aioi. Just from what I can see out the window Tokyo looks fascinating. I managed to buy a lighter at Tokyo station (which I’m sadly really proud of). This train is fast enough that I almost get dizzy looking out the window, I think mostly because the ground/buildings and so forth that are nearest are a blur. If I look at things further away I’m fine. I’m sweating like a... horse. I’m saying horse becaue it is a lot more flattering than pig. Alex warned me that it was hot and very very humid. Aside from the unladylike dripping sweat (ladies glow? You could bottle my “glow”) I really like it. The air feels thicker and soft and fuzzy in a good way. There are also smells I can’t define (aside from the mothball scent in the immigration line, but I blame other travellers) but that are nice. It’s like air wafting out of a sauna. I feel soothed and really thirsty. Alex said that there are food and drinks on these trains; I’ll have to keep and eye out for that.
4:17pm Japan
I believe it’s after midnight back home. My first view of Japan was out the airplane window across an aisle and two or three seats, and it was a golf course. I was a little bit disappointed at how familiar it looked. Since then I’ve been through immigration/customs, picked up my rail pass, and am now on the train from Narita Airport to Tokyo - comparing the time now to Alex’s timetable. Sweet irony of life at last I’ve found youuuuuu... Something nifty Holly told me about was that there are “smoking” cars on trains. I wasn’t able to get a seat in a smoking car for the train from Tokyo to Aioi but I did for this train. Looking out the window, it looks like the suburbs of Seattle from I-5, except for the fields of waving... Rice I think, and I saw the top of what looked like a pagoda a few minutes ago. I’m stuck between wanting to write down everthing I see, and not wanting to be distracted from seeing it. Side cranky note: cigarette lighters are no longer allowed on planes in the US. I forgot. I have a carton of cigarettes and am on the smoking car of the trian but can’t smoke. Alex suggested that when I have questions I first ask young people, particularly women. The main reason being English knowledge but I got the impression that there was another side, one awkward to mention to a feminist. This train car is full of older (middle-aged) men. Asking someone to light your cigarette can be intimate in any case and now I’m totally weirded out. I’m going to try to buy a lighter or matches at the Tokyo train station. Now... I’m going to stare out the window.
I believe it’s after midnight back home. My first view of Japan was out the airplane window across an aisle and two or three seats, and it was a golf course. I was a little bit disappointed at how familiar it looked. Since then I’ve been through immigration/customs, picked up my rail pass, and am now on the train from Narita Airport to Tokyo - comparing the time now to Alex’s timetable. Sweet irony of life at last I’ve found youuuuuu... Something nifty Holly told me about was that there are “smoking” cars on trains. I wasn’t able to get a seat in a smoking car for the train from Tokyo to Aioi but I did for this train. Looking out the window, it looks like the suburbs of Seattle from I-5, except for the fields of waving... Rice I think, and I saw the top of what looked like a pagoda a few minutes ago. I’m stuck between wanting to write down everthing I see, and not wanting to be distracted from seeing it. Side cranky note: cigarette lighters are no longer allowed on planes in the US. I forgot. I have a carton of cigarettes and am on the smoking car of the trian but can’t smoke. Alex suggested that when I have questions I first ask young people, particularly women. The main reason being English knowledge but I got the impression that there was another side, one awkward to mention to a feminist. This train car is full of older (middle-aged) men. Asking someone to light your cigarette can be intimate in any case and now I’m totally weirded out. I’m going to try to buy a lighter or matches at the Tokyo train station. Now... I’m going to stare out the window.
Thursday, July 14, 2005
8:08pm Seattle:
As of last check, we were somewhere over water near Siberia. Watched a few of the in-flight movies, “Hitch” and “A Series of Unfortunate Events,” which were nice. I’ve been trying out the radio stations and it’s a little spooky. One has played Lucinda Williams, Nina Simone, Johnny Cash, Willie Nelson, and Etta James. Am feeling blessed. Philosophically, it’s like a cheesy sequel: “Lost Little Girls Go to Japan.”
As of last check, we were somewhere over water near Siberia. Watched a few of the in-flight movies, “Hitch” and “A Series of Unfortunate Events,” which were nice. I’ve been trying out the radio stations and it’s a little spooky. One has played Lucinda Williams, Nina Simone, Johnny Cash, Willie Nelson, and Etta James. Am feeling blessed. Philosophically, it’s like a cheesy sequel: “Lost Little Girls Go to Japan.”
3:46pm Seattle:
Just SE of Anchorage. Am flying United Airlines, and they have small video monitors in the seat backs for watching in flight films, but which also shows info about the flight such as time in transit, miles covered, and altitude. 34,000 feet altitude, 898 km/hour. Plus position/progress on a map. This is cool mid-flight. It is rather disturbing during take off. For some reason being 200 feet off the ground is much more disturbing than being 34,000 feet off the ground. And then maybe there’ll be a moment when the plane will go from 170 feet to 163 feet then back up to 200. What was that? (I remember it quite vividly. Song of the moment is “Hey St. Peter” by Flash & the Pan. As far as flights go, thisisn’t bad. A fair amount of turbulence but nothing too bad yet. In the past I’ve often noticed that when I fly into or out of Seattle, approximately 80% of the time it’s raining, if only for the few minutes it takes the plane to land. Now approximately due south of Anchorage. It is Seattle, but even so it seems unlikely statistically. It didn’t rain this morning but as the bus drove up to Seatac, at one moment Mount Rainier was perfectly framed looking huge, majestic, snow-capped and what not. The hotels somehow managed to be perfectly placed so as not to interrupt the sight line. It reminded me of the thousands of depictions I’ve seen of Mt. Fuji. There’s a huge group of teenagers of various ages on the plane; I understand it’s a 4H group going to Japan for a month. There was a blond boy, I’d guess 17-ish, who struck up a conversation in the duty-free store (side note: $26 for a carton of Dunhills - yee-bloody-hah!) And then in the seating area at the gate. When I mentioned I was going to visit a male friend he quickly absented himself. It was sweet. If I was ten years younger I’d have been thrilled. Even so; good for the ol’ morale. Song of the moment: “White Lines” by Grandmaster Flash. I was trying to save my iPod battery as I won’t be able to charge it for 12-14 hours. Eh, fuck it. This is why I bought it. I think that kid’s youth rubbed off on me. I got carded for a drink on the plane and the cart moved on before I could find my ID. Plain orange juice?! And then the same flight attendant came up to me later and told me my top was cut too low and showing too much cleavage. I didn’t quite understand what she said so I’m not sure whether she was offended or trying to be helpful. Nearly three hours into the flight, southwest of Anchorage, past Kenai. Song of the moment: “Big Gun” by Ice T.
Just SE of Anchorage. Am flying United Airlines, and they have small video monitors in the seat backs for watching in flight films, but which also shows info about the flight such as time in transit, miles covered, and altitude. 34,000 feet altitude, 898 km/hour. Plus position/progress on a map. This is cool mid-flight. It is rather disturbing during take off. For some reason being 200 feet off the ground is much more disturbing than being 34,000 feet off the ground. And then maybe there’ll be a moment when the plane will go from 170 feet to 163 feet then back up to 200. What was that? (I remember it quite vividly. Song of the moment is “Hey St. Peter” by Flash & the Pan. As far as flights go, thisisn’t bad. A fair amount of turbulence but nothing too bad yet. In the past I’ve often noticed that when I fly into or out of Seattle, approximately 80% of the time it’s raining, if only for the few minutes it takes the plane to land. Now approximately due south of Anchorage. It is Seattle, but even so it seems unlikely statistically. It didn’t rain this morning but as the bus drove up to Seatac, at one moment Mount Rainier was perfectly framed looking huge, majestic, snow-capped and what not. The hotels somehow managed to be perfectly placed so as not to interrupt the sight line. It reminded me of the thousands of depictions I’ve seen of Mt. Fuji. There’s a huge group of teenagers of various ages on the plane; I understand it’s a 4H group going to Japan for a month. There was a blond boy, I’d guess 17-ish, who struck up a conversation in the duty-free store (side note: $26 for a carton of Dunhills - yee-bloody-hah!) And then in the seating area at the gate. When I mentioned I was going to visit a male friend he quickly absented himself. It was sweet. If I was ten years younger I’d have been thrilled. Even so; good for the ol’ morale. Song of the moment: “White Lines” by Grandmaster Flash. I was trying to save my iPod battery as I won’t be able to charge it for 12-14 hours. Eh, fuck it. This is why I bought it. I think that kid’s youth rubbed off on me. I got carded for a drink on the plane and the cart moved on before I could find my ID. Plain orange juice?! And then the same flight attendant came up to me later and told me my top was cut too low and showing too much cleavage. I didn’t quite understand what she said so I’m not sure whether she was offended or trying to be helpful. Nearly three hours into the flight, southwest of Anchorage, past Kenai. Song of the moment: “Big Gun” by Ice T.
10:30am Seattle:
Alex has been frequently advisingme to ask to make sure whatever train I get on in Japan is the right one. Very frequently. I’ve been wanting to start here in Seattle. “Pardon me, Mr./Ms. Bus Driver... Airport?” “Tokyo?” to the flight attendant, all with an exaggerated air of befuddlement. Things to remember to do at airport: exchange $50 for yen, and transfer around stuff in carry-on so I can put stuff I’ll want during the flight under the seat.
Alex has been frequently advisingme to ask to make sure whatever train I get on in Japan is the right one. Very frequently. I’ve been wanting to start here in Seattle. “Pardon me, Mr./Ms. Bus Driver... Airport?” “Tokyo?” to the flight attendant, all with an exaggerated air of befuddlement. Things to remember to do at airport: exchange $50 for yen, and transfer around stuff in carry-on so I can put stuff I’ll want during the flight under the seat.
9:50am Seattle:
First thoughts: I don’t think it would be possible to hyperventilate the whole time, even so I’d probably pass out on the plane and get some sleep. Currently I’m on the 1 bus and will soon transfer to the 194 or 174 in the bus tunnel, whichever one goes to the airport. I think/know I over-packed, at least for my whole “carry-on only”plan. I knew there was stuff I could leave, but it was like a security blanket. I think probably half my luggage is amusement items like books, laptop, knitting.... It semi-defeats the point of travel to experience another culture if I bring my own with me, but it’ll be okay. Serious separation anxiety from cats.
First thoughts: I don’t think it would be possible to hyperventilate the whole time, even so I’d probably pass out on the plane and get some sleep. Currently I’m on the 1 bus and will soon transfer to the 194 or 174 in the bus tunnel, whichever one goes to the airport. I think/know I over-packed, at least for my whole “carry-on only”plan. I knew there was stuff I could leave, but it was like a security blanket. I think probably half my luggage is amusement items like books, laptop, knitting.... It semi-defeats the point of travel to experience another culture if I bring my own with me, but it’ll be okay. Serious separation anxiety from cats.
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